Thursday, August 6, 2015

New RealRestraint product : The Highbinder

Hi there !

Let me introduce you to the latest product in the RealRestraint line : the Highbinder !













The Highbinder is a particular kind of armbinder that goes high up on the arms and which straps cross on the front, ensuring a higher security. Good luck struggling out of that one !

This armbinder is not meant to replace the sculpted one that you know, as its features are different, but to offer a new, more modern design. Instead of changing shape (the sculpted one has different shapes, some covering the shoulders), its focus is on having a very realistic look, being easily customizable, to allow for more angles for the arms (up to a strappado), and using lots of straps to pin the arms together and against the body. It has been a lot of work, a lot more than I anticipated at first, but I must admit I am very proud of the result.

It is entirely made of both rigged and unrigged mesh, most of it being unrigged and easy to resize. The main part is a single mesh object and can be resized in any direction.

It also makes extensive use of materials, so please make sure that you have materials-capable viewer with "Advanced Lighting Model" activated in the Graphics Preferences.


Optionally, if your computer isn't powerful enough to handle ALM, you can turn the shadows off manually to see the dynamic shine without having the FPS drop :




Fashion with the HighBindTex plugin

Its prime focus is on its realistic look, it is skintight and even has creases at the joints. Its design comes from the one I own in RL, the straps crossing on the front, the back going high up on the upper arms with two straps holding the leather up from the outside instead of one from the inside... It's a serious piece of bondage gear ! I bought mine in San Francisco a few years ago, a couple days after saying hi to the Lindens in Battery Street. Good times !

The Highbinder uses the same textures and light components as the Deluxe Gag and the Body Harness, so it is perfectly suited to be worn with them. However it is not limited only to leather... It actually can be set to 9 different materials !

Rough leather

Regular leather

Patent leather (a polished leather)

Blue jeans ! What, you've never seen a denim armbinder before ?

Cordura, a very resilient fabric used by the military

Reinforced spandex

Rubber

PVC

Latex


To change the color and material of the Highbinder, simply use the HighBindTex plugin :





Sections menu : used to specify which prims are to be modified.
- Horizontals : Main part and horizontal straps (the ones that go around the arms and the body).
- Verticals : Vertical or oblique straps (the X ones on the front, plus the armpit ones and shoulder buckles).
- Diamond : Diamond on the front.
- Chest : Whole chest piece.



Surfaces menu : this menu is meant to specify which surface to modify in the selected sections.
- Main : Fabric covering the arms (the glove itself plus the small strap holders on the sides).
- Strap : Front side of the straps.
- Side : Small sides of the straps.
- Lace : Laces only.
- Front : Equal to "Main" + "Strap".
- Trim : Equal to "Side" + "Lace".
- Whole fabric : Equal to "Main" + "Strap" + "Side".
- Whole strap : Equal to "Strap" + "Side".
- Whole metal : Holes, buckles and rings.



Pattern menu :



Tint menu :



Materials menu :



And finally the presets (there are 2 pages of them) :














If you have some basic knowledge on how to make and import textures into SL, and if you are interested in making your own patterns, read on. Otherwise, jump to the next section.

You've seen several examples of customization above, but you can also create your own textures if you like. The textures contained inside the Highbinder are full-perms so they can serve as examples for your own, but you are also provided the UV map of the straps :


This texture is a sort of template that indicates how the whole image is "wrapped" around a strap, like paper wrapped around a gift.

As you can see, the UV map is simple... just write or draw what you want in the middle of the texture, between the two horizontal lines. The two orange strips above and below it represent the trim.

There is a thing to know, though. You might have noticed that the horizontal and vertical straps may or may not share the same pattern (that depends on the pattern). For example, the pattern "You command W&B" will display "YOU COMMAND" on the horizontal parts and "I OBEY" on the vertical ones :

 


This is because the pattern "You command W&B" is in fact composed of two textures : "You command W&B" and "You command W&B V".



Notice the letters are rotated 90° to the right on the second texture. This is what you will have to do too if you want your textures to be different when the straps are horizontal or vertical : simply name them exactly the same, but add a space and a capital "V" at the end of the vertical one. Also make sure the name does not go beyond 23 characters, which is the limit for a button on the menu.

Some patterns do not have a "V" texture but a "W" one (but they can have both), this is the case for the Seam textures (W&B and B&W). The "W" means "apply this on the diamond and glove prims". In the case of the "Seams" textures, it will simply not display any seam on the glove and diamond, because it would look bad.

Once your textures are done, drop them inside the main object (the one named "Highbinder"). No need to reset, it will reset itself and rebuild its lists right away. Be advised that the textures need to be full-perms as well, or they won't be used by the two HeadHarnessTex plugins.

End of the technical part


Please note that the patterns are not exactly the same as the ones in the Body Harness and the Deluxe Gag & Blindfold. The ones contained in the Highbinder are not painted over leather, since it can change materials, a feature that the Body Harness and the Deluxe Gag do not have yet. But I'm thinking of upgrading them both with material-changing capability in the future. I even want to give them the ability to look like transparent plastic, which the Highbinder won't allow (since it hides the arms underneath), but I digress.

By the way, the 3 stitches textures (diffuse, normal and specular) and the lace texture (diffuse only) are included in the box, full perms. You don't need them, but in case you try to modify a texture manually and mess up, at least you can recover without having to update. They are only for personal use, though, even if they are full-perms because of SL reasons you are not allowed to transfer them to anyone or to include them into any product but your own Highbinder. Thank you for your understanding.



The Highbinder, like the sculpted armbinder, has 6 locks, organized in two groups of three. In each group, you can have straps pinning the arms against the body, above the breasts and below them, and at the belly. When locked to the tightest setting, you can be sure the captive won't move much if at all !



And when the arms are "free" (read : tightly wrapped and maybe strapped together, but still able to move away from the body), you can move your arms high up to a strappado :




This is very useful in some bondage furniture, for example in a BH hook :



There are 6 free animations included in the box to help you simulate a strappado the way you want (bent 45° or 90°, with your legs together, parted at chain-length or widely spread), useful when your captor leashes you Highbinder to the ceiling and you are supposed to remain there, without being actually locked to a piece of furniture. They can also be used standalone, as they are priority 3 and the arms rest on the thighs, so they look good even when you are not bound. A good idea is to add them to your Sublimator so you don't have to play them manually or to make a gesture for each one of them.

Bent 45°, legs together

 Bent 45°, legs parted

 Bent 45°, legs spread

 Bent 90°, legs together

  Bent 90°, legs parted

 Bent 90°, legs spread


It isn't allowed to resell these animations or to include them into a commercial product, they are only for personal use. You are allowed to give a copy to your friends, though, even if they don't own a Highbinder themselves. That's fair use.

The arms can also be kept really close to the body, even when the body is bundled up, by using the RR Anim HUD (included in the box) :

Not using the RR Anim HUD

Using the RR Anim HUD



How to resize and use the Mirror plugin

The Highbinder has been made with high customization in mind. We are in the era of mesh bodies now, which means there are now many more different body shapes out there than before. Some people use a Maitreya, others a Belleza, others a Slink, others stick to their system shape, and so on. So it is important to be able to resize all the prims individually, but without taking all day to do this.

For this reason, the parts have been cut with care and a plugin has been created to lighten your workload, by allowing you to mirror the size, position and rotation of some of the straps after you are done with one side.

The Highbinder is divided into 3 objects (I purposely left the rigged parts invisible there, to avoid confusing you) :

- The root item containing the main glove (with its own straps and laces, it's all one single "prim") :

Main glove, exploded to show all the prims

- The chest straps forming the X on the front, with its diamond :

Chest straps

The same, exploded to show every prim

- The belly strap, composed of only the horizontal strap and its cinch :

That one's easy

As you can see, that's not many prims to adjust.

The root item and the belly part both contains some rigged straps :






Those straps are rigged because they need to deform across joints when the body moves, and they cannot be resized, moved or rotated (that's an SL limitation). They are however Fitted Mesh, meaning they change shape according to your shape sliders. But since they are parts of straps instead of complete straps (since those straps need to be resized to your shape, as Fitted Mesh cannot do it for you, especially for mesh body users), they are supposed to look seamlessly linked to the rest of the contraption, like this :




... and not like this :

Seam between the unrigged upper chest strap and the rigged upper chest link

Seam between the unrigged buckle and the rigged shoulder strap

The four rings on the X straps, the buckles on the back and the small loops at the end of each horizontal chest strap are there to act as "glue", to give you more margin for error when you connect the unrigged straps to the rigged ones :





In these pictures, the green parts are unrigged and can be adjusted manually, while the red parts are rigged and cannot be resized or even moved. The lighter green ones are those in direct contact with the rigged parts, those are the ones that need extra attention to position in order to appear seamless.

It's all a bit technical, I know. But it will really make your life easier and you'll get a really tight fit in the end, no matter what body you're using. The bottom line is that the "glue" parts will spare you a seizure if you are OCD with the fitting like me. By the way, the Highbinder was designed on a standard SL shape (what is known as the "Ruth" shape), but my shape is far from that standard, and I use a Maitreya mesh body on top of it. Notice how it fits me well on the pictures, and it took only minutes to fit it right. Fortunately, because I had to fit it quite a few times during the development and testing of this product.

The diamond on the chest parts is there to act as "glue" as well, but this time between 4 unrigged parts, to give you some leeway over their positions, rotations and sizes. It is also there for another reason : the real life counterpart has some kind of square-ish pad of leather at the crossing, to avoid the straps from scissoring against your throat. I have tried both with and without this leather piece, believe me, you want it there. On the Highbinder, it hides the cut between the straps and it looks good, as you can have it display a pattern :



To finish with the adjusting, once you have adjusted one side of the body, you can use the Mirror plugin to mirror to the other side instead of doing the same thing twice :





That plugin is a very simple one (at least its menu is, under the hood that's another story), it lets you mirror from left to right and from right to left at will. It works for the chest straps and rings, and for the two buckles on the main part. Attention, there is no Undo feature, so be careful what you click on !

Adjust one side...

Those left straps are a mess...

... use the Mirror plugin...


... and see the result :

Fixed !


Addendum : Adjusting to your breasts size

After the release, I realized that not every girl was able to adjust her Highbinder to her own shape, if she was using the system body and having a rather ample chest, as the two horizontal rigged chest parts would clip through her body and there was no way to avoid that.

So I have added a plugin called "BreastSize", which is in charge of letting you choose the best adjustment for your horizontal rigged straps according to your chest.

But you might be thinking "Wait, aren't those straps supposed to be Fitted Mesh ? If my breasts are bigger, then those straps should follow, right ?". And you would be right, in part. I tried to do that at first then quickly noticed that although the straps would indeed move away from the body when the breasts grew bigger, they would also jiggle along with the breasts when walking ! But not the unrigged ones, of course ! It looked silly so that's why they are not rigged to the Breast Size shape slider of your body, but only to the Torso Muscles one.

And that's why, despite being Fitted Mesh, those particular straps still need several sizes. This is what the BreastSize plugin is for, it lets you choose among Breast Size 50 (and less), 66, 75, 85 and 100 :



Please note that the BreastSize plugin is nothing else than a renamed Style plugin, and as such, it follows the same design : every style is proper to one lock only. This means that you will have to choose your breast size on this plugin once for every lock (hence six times). I'm sorry, I know it is annoying but it must be done only once when fitting your restraints. I'll try to make a variant of it that makes the style (i.e. the breast size setting) common to all locks, when I have more time, to avoid surprises. This was a quick fix, really !

If you have bought your Highbinder before August the 8th, 2015 around 4 am SL time, and you couldn't resize to your system shape, you might want to get an update (a replacement, in fact) from any of my updaters. You can find one at my shop, the slurl is written at the end of this post. If you have bought it after that time, then your Highbinder should already have the BreastSize plugin included.


Hiding the arms with the AutoAlpha plugin

As mentioned above, the Highbinder is tight, very tight. So tight that it would actually let your skin clip through if your arms weren't hidden underneath. And once again, you might be using a mesh body, or you might not. And you might be using mesh hands, or you might not. To account for that, the Highbinder features the AutoAlpha plugin that will hide your arms for you whenever you're tied, and show them when you're freed. Please note that you need to use a RLV for that, it wouldn't work on a non-RLV viewer and you'd have to hide your arms yourself :




The purpose of the AutoAlpha plugin is to know what to attach and detach, and when. To do this, you specify several paths (absolute or relative) to the folders of your choice :

- The folder(s) to attach when locked and detached when unlocked. It is called "Alpha" as it usually contains the alpha layer included in the box, but it will typically contain the Maitreya auto-hide object too, if you are a Maitreya user (in which case you wouldn't need the alpha layer at all, since your system body would already be hidden by a bigger one).

- The folder(s) to detach when locked, it is called "Detach" and usually contains mesh hands. When locked, the folder and all its sub-folders are detached.

- The folder(s) to attach when unlocked, it is called "Attach" and usually contains mesh hands as well. When unlocked, the folder (but not its sub-folders this time) is attached.

The reason why the "Detach" folder may be different from the "Attach" one is because you may want the Highbinder to detach whatever hands you are wearing without knowing exactly what they are (the Slink hands, for example, do not have the ability to change shape themselves, unlike the Belleza ones, so you might be wearing the casual version, the fist version, the bag version, whatever) but they may all be located under the same parent folder, which is the one that will be detached. Conversely, since the Highbinder did not know which hands you were wearing when locked, it won't know which ones you want it to make you wear when unlocked, so that's why the folders can be different.

It doesn't really matter what's inside each folder. When visible, it will attach whatever is in the "Alpha" folder and detach all the contents of the "Detach" one (as well as its sub-folders). When invisible, it will detach whatever is in the "Alpha" folder and attach what is inside the "Attach" folder. It doesn't even check whether there's something in those folders or if they actually exist or are even specified, it doesn't have to.

To specify a folder, simply click on "Alpha ?", "Detach items ?" or "Attach items ?". The question mark ("?") is there to remind you that there will be a question asked to you after you click on that button. That question takes the form of a text box in which you will write the path to a folder, or several paths to several folders (one per line) :




A path is like a filesystem path on MS-DOS, a Linux shell, a Mac terminal, even a url, it's fairly standard geek stuff. For example, my mesh hands are located in "Body/Hands/Left" and "Body/Hands/Right":



As you can see I have a lot of hand shapes in there.

Suppose I want my Highbinder to attach my Casual left and right hands when unlocked. To do this I specify both paths in the text box, one path per line :



Notice that I did not have to write the ">" part of the "Body", "Hands", "> Left" or "> Right" folder names, because the RLV works on a partial-match basis. "Body/Hands/Left/Casual" is the same thing as "> Body/> Hands/> Left/Casual". In fact, even "bo/han/l/cas" works, if I'm lazy.

Those paths I showed you are absolute ones, i.e. they start at the root (the "#RLV" folder itself). But you can also specify relative paths, as in, relative to where the Highbinder is (because chances are you are going to move it to your #RLV folder as well).

I recommend you create a folder inside the one where your Highbinder is, name it "alpha", and move the alpha layer in it. Or the Maitreya auto-hide object, if you are a Maitreya user like me. Or both. Then specify "./alpha" to the AutoAlpha plugin and you're set.

Recommended folder structure for your RR Highbinder

That way it works the same whether you are wearing a mesh body or not.

In that case, you don't want to write "Restraints/Leather/Highbinder/alpha" in the text box, for you might want to move the Highbinder elsewhere later and that would break the link. So instead, you can just write "./alpha" and it will work just fine. The "./" prefix means (like in any standard filesystem) "the folder we are currently in", and would be replaced at run-time by "Restraints/Leather/Highbinder/" (or whatever folder the Highbinder is in at that time). The "../" prefix means "the parent folder", and that works as well, but I can't think of an example where it could be useful here. Maybe in your own inventory it could help you, who knows. It's there, at least.

The "Hide" and "Show" buttons allow you to simulate a lock and an unlock respectively, to check that your folders are correctly set. The "Active" button simply lets you activate and deactivate the plugin. You can also check that it has detected your RLV. You don't really need to care about the number, if there is one, that means it is detected. At the time of this writing, the version of the latest RLV is 2.9.12, which shows as "2091200". Yay, more geek stuff.

To recap and to show you more examples, my own configuration is the following :

Alpha : "./alpha"
Detach : "body/hands"
Attach : "body/hands/left/casual, body/hands/right/casual"

One last thing : the Maitreya mesh body allows for an auto-hide but not an auto-show, due to how it is scripted. This means that when unlocked, you'll have to show your arms manually if you're a Maitreya user. Hopefully a future version of the Maitreya body will address this. I am not aware of any other body that handles auto-hide, but I'll gladly include an object for it in a future version when possible. I think the Abar eBody will eventually. Also, don't be surprised if the auto-hide object detaches itself from your screen after 2 seconds, it simply sends its command to the Maitreya body and detaches itself, as it is no longer needed until next time, so you don't have to do anything.



You can find the RealRestraint Highbinder in any of the RealRestraint vendors in-world, it is Modify, No-copy and Transfer, and costs L$700 :



The box includes :

Highbinder (right shoulder) (r upper arm)
Front x straps (chest)
Belly strap (right pec)
RR Highbinder alpha
RR Highbinder - Maitreya Auto Hide
RR Highbinder stitches DIF
RR Highbinder stitches NOR
RR Highbinder stitches SPE
RR Highbinder laces DIF
RR Anim HUD
README_Highbinder
Landmark to my shop

One location where to find a RR vendor is in Pak :
http://maps.secondlife.com/secondlife/Pak/76/61/105


Have fun !

Marine

Thank you to :
  Angelina Sinclair
  Danna Pearl
  Keiyra Aeon
  Atmu Evans
  Sindrey Trellis
for your precious help, ideas, feedback and cheers !


PS : You may have noticed the bizarre name of the main object : "Highbinder (right shoulder) (r upper arm)". Does it attach on the right shoulder or on the right upper arm ? It attaches on the right upper arm, but since it needs to be controlled by any RR Anim HUD, including the already existing ones, and that they control only restraints worn on the right forearm and on the right shoulder, I had to keep the "right shoulder" part within the name of the Highbinder object. It is only for compatibility purposes. The other option was to make a fourth attachment containing all the main scripts, and to wear it on the right shoulder or the right forearm. It would have cost an additional attachment point, though, and more scripts to make it function.

PPS : For the fashionistas out there, the shorts I'm wearing in these pictures come from Blueberry ("Cossy" shorts), the bra is the one coming with the Maitreya mesh body, and the sandals are "Sierra" by KC Couture.

Wednesday, July 1, 2015

Latex ponies and puppies everywhere !

Hi there !

After watching my latest movie Rocket's Tail (Part 1 and Part 2), many people asked me how to actually make those latex pony suits for themselves. It is true that the ponies Cohete and (later) Gina look so hot in their latex tacks !

Imagine, this is the ideal way to turn a brat from this :

Yatta !!

... into an obedient ponygirl like this :

WTF--MMMMPH !


But making this tack has been a long process, so instead of explaining to everybody one person at a time, I think that making a blog post, with pictures and step-by-step explanations, is a better idea. Yes, that's pretty much what fashion blogs do, and no, this is not a fashion blog... but an exception from time to time cannot hurt, right ? Plus, this is for the good cause. I want SL to be flooded with ponies and puppies. Mwahahaha ! *cough*

And if you liked Danna Pearl's Bitch Suit pictures, you'll notice that pretty much the same techniques were used, so I will also explain how to make the latex bitch suit as well.





I'll explain here how to assemble all that stuff, but I am also providing for free a box at my shop with all the things you need in order to make your life easier when making these outfits. Of course, that box won't contain any of the commercial products that I mention here, but only the objects and scripts you need to make the latex suit itself. You can find it to the right of my booth, in front of the TV screen that shows a trailer of the Rocket's Tail movie.




So here we go. Let me show you how to make those two suits. Let's begin with...



The latex pony tack

Latex catsuit




 

 

The latex catsuit has dynamic shine, because we are supposed to be in the "next-gen" era (of course you need to activate Advanced Lighting Model on your viewer, but the shadows are not required if your graphics card struggles with them).

There are actually several ways to make your own :

- Wear the one included in the box, with or without the Lolas applier (if you are wearing Lolas mesh breasts and want to wear the RR Body Harness on top of your catsuit, you can use the applier and then click on your breasts and choose "Copy to Bra" in order to make your suit go underneath the harness). That mesh catsuit is Fitted Mesh, meaning it will more or less follow your shape. There are two versions : a plain one and a corset one (the latter having its middle part hidden so it won't clip through the corset). It is pretty much exactly what you see in the movies.


Fitted mesh suit

- Use the provided Maitreya applier or Omega applier if you're a mesh body user like me. Pros : it's easy and looks better since the mesh body is smoother than the SL avatar (that's the point). Cons : on the Maitreya body you can't set an environment value, so the suit looks less polished, and you can't change its color and you have to set the shine yourself. Belleza should look more polished, as it applies Environment values unlike Maitreya. I don't know about the other mesh bodies.


Maitreya applier

- Buy the KaS mesh catsuit with corset. It is not what we used, but it looks good if not better, and you can control the materials the way you like ! It doesn't work with the corset we use, but it has its own corset that looks just as good (albeit different style). KaS also has a lot of items for ponyplay, including hooves.


KaS catsuit + corset

You can find it there : Kas Shop


As you can see on the pictures above, the three solutions yield similar results.


Latex corset




The corset we use is the Black Damask Underbust one by MaggieDoll Alter. It costs L$245. It's simply my favorite one, and it's mod ! The box includes a script to texture it automatically, simply rez the corset on the ground, drag and drop the script into it, wait a second, then pick it up, the script removes itself after doing its job (think of making a backup first). Attention, it seems that some corsets in this brand use different prim numbers, so this script is only guaranteed to work on the Black Damask one. I can't be sure it works on the Black Leather one. In order to wear it with the Fitted Mesh catsuit, you need to use the "corset" one, obviously. Also, this corset doesn't work with the KaS catsuit, but KaS has their own corset anyway.


Hooves



This one is easy, the hooves are from Ri, by Regan Flasheart (here on the Marketplace). They are one single prim each (well, it's mesh, not prim, obviously), and mod, so you can resize and re-texture them at will. They cost L$250. Feel free to use the hooves you like. If you are using a KaS mesh catsuit, there are hooves in the same brand that will fit it perfectly.


Pony tail


Don't ask me where it goes. The girls in Rocket's Tail use the one from Mesmerize Dungeon (which is not the one on the picture above, since my pony tail comes from Morbid Play) and costs L$350.


Arms restraints



Ponies have no use for their arms, right ? I'm using the RR Armbinder that I have textured with materials to make the leather shine dynamically, but the stock leather textures work well too. Vixen cuffs from RealRestraint work just as well, and they include the collar that we use.


Latex horse-shaped head



With its bridle. And maybe a collar and hair, if you are so inclined (we use the RR Vixen collar, if you don't already have it and don't want to spend L$1200 on the full Vixen set just for it, send me an IM in world, I can sell it to you directly for L$400).

The head is the most important part, the one that makes this tack so unique. The rest is up to your taste. It comes from Hybridz by Fyre Furse, and is part of a full pony suit. I have spoken with Fyre and she agreed to make a standalone product with just the head for only L$100, so you don't need to buy the whole suit that costs L$800, and that horse head uses the very textures and values I used in the movies. That way, you won't even have to modify it yourself ! Thanks Fyre !


As for the hair, I use Yelena from fri.day, but feel free to use what you like best :)


And if you want to go one step further...

I'm sure you want your latex pony tack to be functional, on top of being sexy, right ? How about making you feel like an animal, instead of just looking like one ? How about being actually mute, deaf and blind on top of being bound and encased, and being trained that way ? Yes. Mute. Deaf. Blind. What, does it scare you ? We train like that nearly every day around here. It's hard at first, but you'll see, after a few months of training, it becomes second nature.

A RealRestraint ballgag from which you take the scripts, and put them into the latex horse head. Don't forget to take the two Leash_slave scripts from its rings, and to put them into the rings near the bit, and you'll see reins when you're leashed. Of course you won't wear the ballgag itself as it will be useless, but the horse head will then be fully scripted. And if you want to update it in the future, those scripts will be removed from the horse head (without destroying it) and you will be given a new ballgag by the updater.

A RealRestraint blindfold with a RLV 2.9. Perfect for keeping a submissive into sub-space. It is not mandatory though.

A Sassy Ponygirl AO for a perfect stance (made by me, you can find it at my shop in Pak).

A Riding Reins HUD if you do pony carting, mandatory for blind ponies. You can find it at my shop, as well as pony carts.

And last but not least, Danna Pearl's SubListen HUD, which filters out what you hear except the words you learned yourself or that your trainer lets you understand (it is completely customizable and not only dedicated to ponyplay). You don't learn by repetition, you actually have to guess words in order to learn them, and be careful not to try to guess words that you already know, or you will forget them ! It is very effective at making you feel like an animal, as you have to focus in order to evolve from wild animal to trained pet able to obey orders. I have been using it for weeks, it works like a charm.



The latex bitch suit




Latex catsuit

This is the same catsuit as the pony tack, except we use the RR Body Harness (it costs L$450) instead of the Perception corset, so if you use the Fitted Mesh catsuit, you'll need to wear the plain version of it, not the corset version.


A pair of shoes... or not


The shoes we use are the Maggie Heels but feel free to use the ones you like best, or not to wear any shoes at all. If you want to wear heels with your Slink feet, I recommend you grab a black latex applier for your feet at Hugo Designs for L$100, if you haven't already.


Puppy tail


The tail we use is the one from Z Puppygirl by Zenga Ling. You can color it the way you like, it works well and looks very cute.

Restraints


This is what makes the bitch suit a bitch suit. The RR Pretty Mummy set does exactly that when you lock the legs into the "Pet" lock, which automatically locks the arms into the "Pony" lock. In that bondage, you cannot do anything but crawl on all fours (on your elbows and knees, to be exact), and lay around and look cute. Use the MummyTex plugin (in standard in this set) to choose the "Black Latex" preset, and you'll be very close to what the suit looks like.


Latex puppy head


The head is made of three different parts : a RR Isolation Hood, a RR Isolation Blindfold (sold along with the hood) and a Z Puppygirl Muzzle and Ears (sold by Zenga Ling), heavily modified. You'll find a script to texture the hood and another to texture the blindfold. Like the Perception corset, simply drag and drop the script into both items after rezzing them on the ground, then pick them up.

At the time of this writing, I am currently discussing with Zenga Ling to ask her to make a light version of the muzzle+ears so you don't have to modify them yourself, but for now, just know that you need to buy the puppy set in order to get those items. Then, if you want to modify the ears and snout so they look as dark and shiny as the rest, here is what you need to do :

- Edit the shiny parts with Edit Linked Parts. Attention, the snout has two layers, one half transparent on the outside (you might want to make that one invisible), and the actual shiny prim on the inside.
- Set the texture to "blank" and the tint to RGB 5 5 5.
- Set the specular texture to "blank" as well, the Glossiness to 150, the Environment to 15 and the color to RGB 128 128 128.

That's it !


And if you want to take it to the next level...

Being sexy in tack and suit is all good and well, but you may want to make them actually restrict you and make you feel like the animal they make you look like !


Like the latex pony tack, you might want a few more accessories if you want to make it fully functional, but the bitch suit is very functional as it is already, as the mummy set and the iso hood and blindfold handle all the restrictions. However, we use Danna Pearl's SubListen HUD on top of it to complete the experience. And it is perfect for it, as combined with the bondage and blindness, a pet is broken in a couple of weeks, tops.


So, to recap, assuming you don't own any of the products I mentioned above, here is all you need to buy in order to look exactly like the ponygirls in Rocket's Tail, stance and restrictions included :

- Latex catsuit with appliers, scripts and all that stuff : Free, get it at http://maps.secondlife.com/secondlife/Pak/76/61/105
- Latex corset : L$245, get it at https://marketplace.secondlife.com/p/Perception-Underbust-Corset-Black-Damask/3632942
- Pony hooves : L$250, get them at https://marketplace.secondlife.com/p/Ri-HoH-No026/3158986
- Pony tail : L$350, get it at http://maps.secondlife.com/secondlife/MD/132/143/26
- RR Armbinder : L$600, get it at http://maps.secondlife.com/secondlife/Pak/76/61/105
- Vixen collar (part of the Vixen set) : L$400, get it by IMing me directly (Marine Kelley), please don't pay me before I answer though
- Latex horse head : L$100, get it at http://maps.secondlife.com/secondlife/Okeanides/161/219/22
- Hair : I use Yelena from fri.day here, but I also recommend Juliana by Truth Hawks as it is mod and well done, and it was actually my first choice. That's the hair I wear on my Sassy Pony AO vendor picture.

Total : L$1945 to make that suit.

And if you want to go further :

- Ballgag (extract the scripts, put them in the horse head, don't forget the ones in the rings) : L$200, get it at http://maps.secondlife.com/secondlife/Pak/76/61/105
- Any blindfold you like, the ones I make all use RLV 2.9 : L$160 for my cheapest, get it at http://maps.secondlife.com/secondlife/Pak/76/61/105
- Riding Reins HUD : L$100, get it at http://maps.secondlife.com/secondlife/Pak/76/61/105
- Sassy Pony AO : L$600, get it at http://maps.secondlife.com/secondlife/Pak/76/61/105
- SubListen HUD : L$300, get it at https://marketplace.secondlife.com/p/SI-SubListen-HUD-v104/7206198

Total : L$1360 for all the gear that makes you enjoy it.


And for the bitch suit :

- Latex catsuit with appliers, scripts and all that stuff : Free, get it at http://maps.secondlife.com/secondlife/Pak/76/61/105
- Body harness : L$450, get it at http://maps.secondlife.com/secondlife/Pak/76/61/105
- Pretty Mummy set : L$1250, get it at http://maps.secondlife.com/secondlife/Pak/76/61/105
- Isolation hood : L$450, get it at http://maps.secondlife.com/secondlife/Pak/76/61/105
- Z puppy gear set : L$700, get it at http://maps.secondlife.com/secondlife/Beauvais/188/162/39
- Z puppy tail plug : L$250, get it at http://maps.secondlife.com/secondlife/Beauvais/188/156/39

Total : L$3100 to make that suit.

And if you want to go further :

- SubListen HUD : L$300, get it at https://marketplace.secondlife.com/p/SI-SubListen-HUD-v104/7206198

Total : L$300 for the gear that makes you enjoy it.


There you go ! I hope the explanations are clear, and I know this looks expensive to make a suit, but being a reader of my blog, there is a good chance that you already own some, if not all of that stuff. So in practice it should not cost you that much.


Have fun !

Marine

Friday, June 26, 2015

RLV 2.9.12

Hi there !

I have become a mesh body user not long ago, and like every mesh body user, I quickly found out that having dynamic shadows activated while wearing a complex mesh body (Maitreya which is my choice, but also Eve, Belleza, Slink, Abar, TMP...) totally kills the FPS (Frames Per Second, the measure of rendering speed). Like, it divides them by half. It was so bad that I had to turn the shadows off, and I'm sure I'm not the only one.

I knew it was due to the avatar shadows, simply by looking at the Fast Timers in-world (press Ctrl-Shift-9 to show them). A little digging in it and you see "Avatar Shadows" in plain letters as the FPS hog. In fact, this was due specifically to complex rigged mesh rendering, the FPS slowdown wasn't due to unrigged attachments or anything like that. And since mesh bodies are among the most complex rigged mesh around, they kind of made that issue more obvious. And over time, more and more people switch to mesh bodies, so something had to be done.

Recently Chalice Yao implemented an optimized version of the avatar shadow rendering for her own viewer (NaCl). It does not lower the FPS for a single avatar much (since it has to render nearly all the passes the original algorithm does), but the optimization seems to work well for a crowd. After a short conversation with her, I had another idea and wanted to simplify the shadow of every single avatar in sight, by not rendering rigged mesh attachments at all, and rendering the avatar shape instead. I think Chalice will use that as an option in her viewer too since I integrated hers (thank you for that by the way, Chalice).

So I have added a new debug setting to the RLV called "RestrainedLoveAvatarShadows". You can access it by going to the "Advanced" menu, selecting "Show debug settings" and typing "RestrainedLoveAvatarShadows" in the edit box on the small window that shows. If you don't see an "Advanced" menu, press Ctrl-Alt-Shift-D to make it show.

This debug setting can take 4 values :

0 : No avatar shadow at all. Well, except unrigged attachments, which will still show. I don't know how to selectively hide the shadow of an object when it is attached, compared to an object that is not an attachment, since we are not in the right context for that when it comes to rendering shadows (we're dealing with surfaces and spatial partitions at that time of the process).

 
Level 0, 83 FPS. As you can see, my unrigged attachments (hair, necklace and a few other things) look like they are floating in the air).

1 : Simplified shadows (my method). By using this method, none of your rigged attachments will have a shadow. More over, none of your alpha layers will mask your body in its shadow either, so the result is that you will see your system shape instead of your mesh body shape. The downside to this is that your mesh hair won't show either, neither will your mesh clothes. This method is good for those who use a human mesh body, but is inadequate for non-human avatars such as animals, robots etc, since the underlying avatar shape is usually very thin and deformed and serves only as a skeleton.

Level 1, 83 FPS. Notice the avatar shape rendered on the white screen, and the lack of anything rigged (in particular my boots, which are replaced with the shape of the shoe base). Notice there is no difference in speed with Level 0, even at such high FPS counts.

2 : Chalice's optimized algorithm. You won't see a difference between that rendering and the legacy one, and the FPS gain will be minimal if there are only a few avatars around, but apparently this is good for crowds.

Level 2, 47 FPS. Notice that the shadow is visually exact, all my rigged attachments are rendered. But it has a cost in rendering speed.

3 : The legacy SL rendering. Exact, but slow.

Level 3, 45 FPS. Here too the shadow is exact.


In this example, from 45 FPS to 83 FPS, that's a 180% boost. This is what I generally observe (even in areas with a lot to render, while these pictures have been taken in a skybox to really emphasize the difference in speed), a speed boost between 150% and 180% when setting RestrainedLoveAvatarShadows to 1.

You may say "ok level 1 is cool but the shadow looks like crap" and you'd be right. However, you seldom look at your shadow. Your shadow is there to make the scene more realistic, but it isn't really the center of the attention. More over, very often you can see your system shoe base rendered at the same time as your rigged feet and shoes anyway.

Why ? Because short of a mesh body, you have to use an alpha layer that has an actual texture attached to it in order to hide your feet, and the renderer does not like that at all. If one texture in an alpha layer is not totally transparent, then it will have a full shadow. I believe this is done this way for optimization purposes. Mesh bodies, on the other hand, hide the whole body except the head, so it uses fully transparent textures, and that hides the shadows of the system hands and feet.

Lastly, you often have "Ambient Occlusion" selected in the graphics preferences, which not only adds ambient occlusion to the rendering (i.e. a darkening the corners, making the scene look more realistic too), but also blurs all the shadows (don't ask me why). In the end, with Ambient Occlusion on, your shadow looks good enough even at level 1. And if you really want to take good pictures including your shadow, you don't need the FPS boost so you can switch to level 2 or 3.


Ok, that was a long explanation, sorry about that ! You can grab the RLV for Windows here :

www.erestraints.com/realrestraint

Direct download :
www.erestraints.com/realrestraint/RestrainedLoveSetup.exe

And the MD5 hash for the executable is :
a8a225d6a105f25a1686e688d17605b9


Have fun !
Marine